Recommendations
I find myself constantly giving advice on what products would be best for a new puppy. I'm always happy to answer these questions, but I'm just going to post it here in case I missed anything. Let me also make it clear that I receive no kickbacks or compensation for recommending the products listed below. I mention them because over the years as a breeder, I have tried literally hundreds of different products and these are what I consider the cream of the crop.
Food
I have tried many different brands of food over the years, but have been happiest with the Nutro line and it is all I will feed my dogs and puppies. My dogs like it and it gives them beautiful coats, nice white teeth and clear eyes. Make sure you feed the dry food instead of the canned as it is much better for their teeth and gums. I would also suggest you keep your puppy on the puppy formula for 18 months before switching to adult. Nutro can be found at PetSmart, Petco, Pet Supermarket, etc.
What should you NOT feed your puppy? After a tip from someone in the vet industry, I did extensive research... what I found shocked me, as I'm sure it will shock you. Let me educate you on what I learned:
What makes up many dog (and cat) foods comes from the rendering plant. To render, as defined in Webster's Dictionary, is "to process as for industrial use: to render livestock carcasses and to extract oil from fat, blubber, etc., by melting."
When chickens, lambs, cattle, swine and other animals are slaughtered for food, usually only the lean muscle is cut off for human consumption. This leaves about 50 percent of a carcass left over. These leftovers are what become what we so commonly find on pet food labels, such as "meat-and-bone-meal" or "by-products". So basically, what many pets eat are lungs, ligaments, bones, blood and intestines.
Some other things that go into rendering are:
When dead animals from cow pastures are picked up, they may not be rendered until up to a week after they are dead. Because of this, it is estimated that E. coli bacteria contaminates more than 50 percent of meat meals. The rendering process destroys the bacteria, but it does not eliminate the endotoxins that the bacteria release when they die. These endotoxins, which can cause sickness and disease, are not tested for by most pet food manufacturers.
When all this comes to the rendering plant, it's put in a huge vat and shredded. Then it's cooked at 220 to 270 degrees for 20 to 60 minutes. After it cools, the grease is skimmed off the top. This is "animal fat". The rest is pressed and dried. This is "meat and bone meal".
Dogs (or cats) wouldn't eat this stuff in the wild, so why will they eat it out ot their bowls? Their noses are tricked by the smell of it. The smell of animal fats for dogs (and fish oil for cats) is sprayed on the dry, bland kibble bits to make them appetizing. These flavors ususally come from rendered restaurant grease, animal fat, or other oils unfit for human consumption.
Huge conglomerates use pet food companies as a cheap, and even profitable, way of disposing of the waste from their human food companies. So who owns what?
Bottom line, be careful of any food that contains "meat and bone meal" in the ingredients. I would also highly recommend staying clear of the brands listed above.
Treats
Two of my favorite treats to give my dogs are Old West Premium Lamb Cuts and Pro-Treat Freeze Dried Liver Treats. The Lamb Cuts are made from, you guessed it, lamb, and the dogs love them! Plus they are big enough that they actually have to chew them instead of just swallowing, so they taste them! Freeze dried liver treats are just that, 100% pure liver. You won't find much healthier for your new pup than that, and they can't get enough of them. Both can be found at PetSmart for $20 each.
Chewing
Any puppy, and especially a husky puppy, can chew from sun up to sun down. Huskies are a very intellignet breed, and with intelligence comes the problem of easily becoming bored by the same old day after day. So it's important to get something that is both good for your new pup and that they will like. Three of my favorites are bully sticks, stuffed bones, and stuffed cow hooves.
A bully stick is actually a steer or bull penis that has been dried out. But while it might be disgusting for us, I've never seen a dog that didn't love, love, love them! They are a bit pricey (about $4 for a 6-inch stick), as there is a somewhat limited supply, but it's all natural and difficult to get through, so your new pup will be working on one for hours! Besides the stick, they also come in rings, braided and for an extra long chew, curly q's.
A stuffed bone is a beef shank bone that has been boiled and sterilized (so it won't make a mess on your carpet!) and stuffed with yummy peanut butter, beef, bacon or chicken filling. They are great for your dog's teeth and one bone will last for months. Also because the shank bone is thick, there is a much reduced chance of the bone splintering and getting caught either in a dog's sensitive mouth or in their digestive tract. These can be picked up for around $5 per bone and are definately worth their weight in gold!
The stuffed cow hoof is basically the same thing as the bone, but smaller, so a puppy might have an easier time with that to start out with and the bone when they get a little older.
You want to stay away from rawhide bones, as they aren't digestable. There have been cases where dogs have had to go to surgery because of a large chunk of rawhide that got stuck in their intestines and wouldn't pass naturally.
Toys
Their are lots of great toys on the market today, but by and far the best that I have come across are the AKC plush toys. They are specifically designed to entice your puppy's prey drive and I have yet to see a pup loose interest in them! They are very well made and well worth the money... I had a fox tail that all the puppies would go nuts for, and finally had to throw it out this past spring - but it had survived tug-o-war with 23 puppies before it was gone! You'll be hard pressed to find these at stores, but can buy them directly off AKC's website by following this link.
Collars
I love Lupine Collars! Not only do they have some of the most colorful and cool designs of any collar, but the company backs them 100%. That means that if your dog chews through or breaks it, they will replace it, no questions asked! You won't usually find these in stores, but sometimes vet offices will carry them. If yours doesn't, you can go to their website to find someone near you that has them.
Housebreaking
I used to try to housebreak my puppies the best I could, but trying to keep up with 6 - 11 puppies at one time just got to be too much! Now I leave that up to you, but I can still give you tips on the best ways to do it. It would be an awful lot to put on here, however, so I would much rather go over it on an individual basis as there are so many different techniques. But no matter which one you use, there will be accidents, and that is where Simple Solution comes in. I have never come across a stain/scent remover that worked half as well as this stuff! Sadly, I discovered it too late to save my own carpets. It's simple to use, works better, and actually costs less than some of the competition. If you decide to use the potty pad method, they also make some great puppy pads!
Brushes
You really only need 3 grooming tools; a metal wide-tooth comb, a good bristle brush and the Furminator.
The comb should be used to run through the coat to break up any mats or snags and to remove dead hairs. Knots should be worked out a little at a time, using the comb and the fingers to gently tease the hairs apart. It is especially important to comb through the undercoat during shedding. Use the brush once the combing is complete to finish off the coat. Brush the coat forward, over the head and shoulders, before combing it back. Brush the rear areas in the direction of the lay of the coat. Extra attention should be given to the hindquarters, as guard hairs there will more easily accumulate into mats.
The Furminator: funny name, serious tool! It's not cheap, you'll pay $50 - $60 for one large enough for a full grown husky but it is well worth it! Make sure you follow the directions on the insert to avoid hurting your dog. Below is a picture of an actual husky that was groomed with the Furminaor... need I say more?
Wow, I think that covers most everything. But of course, I'm always here to answer questions I might have missed!
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